UL1015 and UL1007 are the two hook-up wires we quote more than any others, and the question behind most of those calls is the same: which one do I actually need? The short answer is that UL1015 is the heavier wire, rated 600 volts and 105°C, while UL1007 is thinner, rated 300 volts and 80°C. If your circuit runs at line voltage or lives somewhere warm, use UL1015. If you're wiring low-voltage electronics and want something easy to route, UL1007 saves space and money.
That covers most cases. The details below cover the rest.
Spec Comparison
| Specification | UL1015 | UL1007 |
|---|---|---|
| Voltage rating | 600V | 300V |
| Temperature rating | -40°C to 105°C | -40°C to 80°C |
| Insulation | PVC, thicker wall | PVC, thinner wall |
| Gauge range | 30 AWG to 10 AWG (larger available) | 30 AWG to 16 AWG |
| Conductor | Stranded or solid, bare or tinned copper | Stranded or solid, bare or tinned copper |
| UL standard | UL 758 (AWM Style 1015) | UL 758 (AWM Style 1007) |
| Flame rating | VW-1 | VW-1 |
Both styles are Appliance Wiring Material under UL 758, and both pass the VW-1 vertical flame test. The real separation is voltage, temperature, and wall thickness.
Why the Insulation Thickness Matters
The thicker wall on UL1015 is what buys the 600V rating and the extra 25 degrees of temperature headroom. It also makes the wire noticeably fatter. On a 16 AWG conductor, UL1015 insulation runs about 0.030" thick versus roughly 0.015" for UL1007. Double the wall means a bigger overall diameter, which adds up fast when you're bundling fifty conductors through a wire duct.
That's the practical trade: UL1015 gives you protection and headroom, UL1007 gives you density and flexibility. Panel builders who fight for every cubic inch of enclosure space care about that difference a lot.
Where Each One Shows Up
UL1015 is the standard for anything touching line voltage or living in a hot enclosure:
- Control panels and motor controls
- Appliance internal wiring on the 120V/240V side
- HVAC equipment, where cabinet temperatures climb
- Automotive and battery circuits that need the heavier wall
UL1007 handles the low-voltage side:
- Electronics and PCB-to-chassis wiring
- LED lighting and signage
- Instrumentation, sensors, and signal runs
- Computer and telecom equipment internals
Plenty of panels use both: UL1015 from the terminal blocks to the contactors, UL1007 from the PLC to the sensor field. Nothing wrong with that. The mistake to avoid is putting UL1007 on a 480V control circuit because it was the spool within reach.
A Note on UL1061 and Dual-Rated Wire
If you've also seen UL1061 on drawings, it's a semi-rigid PVC style that overlaps UL1007's territory with a slightly thinner wall. And much of what sells today is dual-marked (UL1007/1569, or MTW-rated constructions), so one spool can satisfy more than one callout. If your print specifies a single style number, match it. Inspectors read the legend on the insulation, not your intentions.
Which Should You Buy?
Ask two questions. What's the circuit voltage, and how hot does the environment get? Over 300V or over 80°C, the answer is UL1015 without further discussion. Under both limits, UL1007 does the job and routes easier. When a run could go either way, most shops standardize on UL1015 so there's no chance of the wrong wire ending up on the wrong terminal.
We stock both in a full range of gauges and colors, cut to length. See our UL1015 hook-up wire and UL1007 hook-up wire pages for available put-ups, or browse the whole hook-up wire line. For deeper dives, we've published a full UL1007 spec guide, and if heat is your problem rather than voltage, see the UL 3266 XLPE hook-up wire guide (125°C).
